Pruning Perennial Salvias

This is all about pruning perennial salvias so the plants stay healthy and flower in abundance.

Salvias are popular all the world over.  I’ve seen them growing in England, the Canary Islands, Mexico, and many different places in the US.  These plants are so versatile because they can comfortably fit into many styles of gardens, from old-fashioned cottage right up to modern, simplistic ones. 

They grow well here in California, where our Mediterranean climate suits them to a tee, and they are loved because they have a long bloom time.  Their non-thirsty ways make sense, given our lack of rainfall for many years.

NOTE: This was published in 2014. Rather than do an extensive update on this, I’ve done a newer post on Pruning & Trimming 3 Types Of Salvias In Spring Or Fall with more information you’ll want to check out.

I was a San Francisco Bay Area professional gardener for over 20 years. This is where I first learned all about perennial salvias. The nursery where I worked in Berkeley sold many different species and varieties.  This post is all about sharing what I know about pruning the two most popular types of perennial salvias you probably have in your garden.  

Closeup of a purple flowering salvia commonly called culinary sage.
This is Salvia officinalis (with the lavender flower) or Culinary sage, which is perennial here in Santa Barbara but an annual in colder climates. It is a semi-shrubby (or shrublet if you prefer to call it that), woody salvia which falls into the pruning category 1.  It’s smaller than the greggi below, so I would only cut it back by 6-8″ after flowering. Then, you can dry the leaves to use for cooking.

I’m going to talk about pruning salvias here in coastal California. You can tweak the process for your climate zone if they’re also perennials where you live. The first type is the herbaceous salvias with woody stems.  These are the shrubby salvias.

A few that fall into this category that you may know are Salvia greggii (there are so many of these!), S. chamaedryoides, S. coccinea and S. microphylla. There are quite a few microphyllas, too – the one you see in the video is “Hot Lips.”  These you prune back after flowering but not all the way.

Salvia greggi pruned in a sphere shape. This image illustrates how pruning perennial salvias can be time intensive. This one is a very big plant.
This is Salvia greggi, a common landscape plant. It has woody stems & also falls in the 1st pruning category.  After each flowering cycle, I would take it down by at least a foot.

Take them back to at least where the first set of foliage starts on the flower stem – this could be a pinch, or you can take them down further if you’d like.  I learned the hard way on an established plant to not cut it down to 3″.   It never fully came back; out it came, and into the compost it went.

With these types of salvias, I thin out the middle a bit and then shape the plant so it’s pleasing to the eye.  They usually go through 3 bloom cycles throughout the year here.  We have a long growing season.  I would give them a mild pruning in the fall and a more intense one in the late winter or early spring if needed.  

There’s the whole fall pruning versus spring pruning debate. I don’t prune the plants with a little more substance in the fall and leave them be over the winter. Then, I do an early spring haircut and shaping.

Be sure to take out any growth that has died over the winter.  If you don’t give these salvias some pruning, they will get extremely woody and won’t repeat bloom like you want them to.

In my years working with salvias, I found that some needed to be replaced before or around the 5-year mark.  This is especially true with this type. Some perennials don’t live forever, after all.

They tend to get straggly over time. No worries if you have to replace any because they grow fast, especially if you purchase a 1-gallon plant.

This is Salvia leucantha or Mexican Bush Sage in full bloom, the flowers are magenta and they grey green foliage.
This is Salvia leucantha or Mexican Bush Sage. They’re deciduous salvias with soft stems & fall into the 2nd pruning category. Once the stems have flowered & died off, cut them to the ground.

Second up are the deciduous herbaceous salvias.  The old growth eventually dies out, and the fresh new growth emerges from the base of the base.  

They have softer stems that either die off and/or freeze. Plants that fall into this category are Salvia elegans, S. guaranitica, s. leucantha, s. waverley and s. patens. In the video you see me working on a Salvia leucantha or Mexican Bush Sage.  These salvias are very simple to prune.

When it’s through flowering, cut those stems down to the ground.  It needs to be done once or twice a year.  They will still flower if you don’t, but you’ll get more blooms, and the plant will look 100% better if you do.  

Here in Santa Barbara, the leucanthas and the Waverleys get huge.  Many of them are not cut back, leaving a tangle of dead, twisted stems, and they look like a ratty mess. It’s best to give them the shearing back they need.  

You’ll see the soft new growth appearing at the base. Another thing to know is that these salvias tend to spread as they grow, so you might have to do a bit of dividing.

This is Salvia spathacea or Hummingbird sage, it's flowers are thicker than other salvias and the flower is red.
This is Salvia spathacea or Hummingbird sage, which is also a deciduous perennial, pruning category 2.  In the left foreground is the new growth. Cut the flower stalks (the old growth) in the back down to the ground after they’re completely spent.

Knowing what kind of salvia you have is best before jumping into action with the pruners. Both of these types of salvias benefit from a good haircut.

You’ll get a much better bloom and shape if you do so.  No ratty-looking plants in our gardens, please!

Note: This was published in 2014. Rather than do an extensive update on this, I’ve done a newer post on Pruning & Trimming 3 Types Of Salvias In Spring Or Fall with more information you’ll want to check out.

In the video below, you’ll see me pruning these two types of salvias. Enjoy!

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40 Comments

  1. Hi Nell!
    I just happened on your site when I was looking for info on pruning Salvias. I have a Salvia guaranitica “Black and Blue” that was beautiful when I planted it last Spring. (I put in a Salvia Sampler garden with about 25 different salvias.) But unfortunately we got hit with a terrible freeze that lasted for several days. It looks completely dead. Sunset book says something about it getting woody and to cut it down to the ground when it dies in winter. Have you had experience with these? How far is “down to the ground”? Last year’s wood, previous year’s wood, or literally down to the ground?
    BTW – love your site! Super fun!

    – Cammie
    Gilroy, CA SS Zone: 14

    1. Hi Cammie- I just drove through Gilroy on my way home from the Bay Area. I was a professional gardener based out of San Francisco so I’m familiar with where you live. Salvia guaraniticas can take temps into the 20’s so yours should be fine in Spring. They are interesting because of their classification as a woody salvia (a sub shrub actually) but with herbaceous stems. I only have experience with 1 of them in Palo Alto & this is what I did: I deadheaded it in Fall after the bloom was over. Then I waited until late Winter/early Spring (depending on the cold or amount of rain) & cut it back to 12″. Here in Santa Barbara, they get quite large. I’ve found that the warmer the climate, the more like a shrub they act. I know someone who had one (in a much colder climate) & it got hit by the cold temps but started coming back from the ground in mid-Spring. Hope that helps! Nell

  2. I love salvia’s. I never really thought to cut them back that drastically but it makes sense. Here in zone 6 they don’t always make a comeback, but sometimes I get lucky. Black and blue is one of my favorites just like the one Cammie was talking about. The hummingbirds love it. Another favorite is Wendy’s Wish. Great site.

    1. Hi Jaime – Thank you. Black & Blue is a great salvia. 1 of my favorites is Limelight – be sure to check it out if you’re not familiar with it. Wendy’s Wish is a beauty too. Plus, there are a number of new salvias introduced every year to keep us intrigued. In this temperate climate salvias need to be pruned regularly to keep them from looking “ratty”. And yes, all salvias are hummingbird fodder! Happy gardening, Nell

    1. Hi Melissa – You have 2 different types of salvias. The “Hot Lips” is a woody salvia & falls into pruning category #1 on my vlog. Salvia chiapensis is herbaceous & falls into pruning category #2. Hope that helps, Nell

  3. Hi Nell! Thanks so much for your web page. I had a CA native garden planted last summer. I live in San Jose, CA. I have not pruned anything yet which I’m afraid may have been a mistake. I have three types of Salvia: Hot Lips, Clevelandii and another one with blue flowers (not sure what it’s called). The Hot Lips seems to have bloomed the whole year even though I’ve read that they should have three bloom cycles. The clevelandii are still blooming very nicely and smell delicious !! I am not sure if I should do any pruning now or wait until the fall or winter. I couldn’t find your “vlog” on the web page to read about this. Could you advise me? I have several other plants as well that maybe I could consult with you about. Thanks very much. Diane

    1. Hi Diane – You’re certainly welcome. With Salvia “Hot Lips & clevelandii, you can just dead head them now. Hot Lips can be cut back by about a 1/3 in mid-fall late winter/early spring is fine too). It’s best to take it down a bit after each bloom cycle so it doesn’t get too woody. Clevelandii is more of a shrub so don’t give it any kind of severe pruning. Just remove spent flowers, the dead wood & open it up a bit – that’s all you do. Many salvias have blue flowers so I can’t advise you on that 1. I call this my vlog because I do videos & blog – it’s not a daily vlog. Sorry if it confused you! I’m heading up to Pacifica at the end of Sept to do a Halloween decorating & work in a client’s garden so I could do a short in person consult if you’d like. Or, over skype f you’d prefer. Nell

  4. Hi Nell – We live in San Ramon, Ca. and have what I think is Salvia Clevelandii. It is 3 years old and about 4 feet high & wide . I just pruned it yesterday cutting about 1 foot off and hoping I did it right. I am not sure to cut it more, or leave it be. I have the before and after pictures, but I am not sure how to include it in your vlog. -Thank you, Rolando.

    1. Hi Rolando – Salvia Clevelandii is a CA native plant & very easy to grow. They do get woody over the years though. I’ve found that it’s best to prune them back (how much depends on the age) after flowering & then again in fall. You can give it a light pruning in spring, more like a tip pruning. What you did now is fine. After flowering cut it back by about the same amount & then again in fall. Woody salvias which are older respond better to that type of pruning. Nell

  5. Hi Nell – You provide homeowners like us a lot of knowledge and encouragement. -Thanks so much, Rolando

    1. My pleasure Rolando The 1st time I cut back an older, overgrown woody Salvia greggii to about 10-12″ from the ground, it never recovered. I learned from experience – easy does it with those! Nell

  6. Hi!

    I have a large raised flower bed in my yard (I live in Long Beach, CA) and have the Mexican Salvia. They have gown large and wide and have bloomed with their lovely purple felt flowers. I would like to cut them back, as they are overtaking my garden. Can you tell me if it is ok to prune back, if so, how much and how far down on the stems. I would like them to grow and bloom again this season, but am a novice at this. Can you give me any suggestions? Thanks for your help, Mary-Jo

    1. Hi Mary-Jo – Yes, they are deciduous herbaceous Salvias whose stems which have bloomed need to be cut all the way back each year. The new growth appears from the base. I explain it more in this updated post on Salvias: https://www.joyusgarden.com/pruning-salvias/ You’ll see it in that video too. By the way, do it soon. Hope that helps! Nell

  7. Planted Hot Lips about a year ago. My soil is heavy clay- I cut back the plant a bit a few months ago but it still looks woody, thin, and is barely flowering. Its about two feet in both directions. Is there any amendment or anything else that would help? (Yes I should have done something about the soil before I planted it)Its being watered on drip. I don’t think its getting too much water. I have a cleveland sage in the same area and its doing great. Just got a Salvia chamaedryoides- what’s the care for that? thanks for the help!

    1. Hi Liz – It’s best to amend those heavy clay soils before you plant. Worms always help to aerate the soil by the way. You can try mixing in a good local compost, which loosens the soil, around the plant. Regarding the S. chamaedryoides, care for it like the other salvias. It is a woody stemmed perennial by the way to you want to prune it like the S. greggiis, microphyllas, etc. Nell

    1. Hi Janice – That’s a woody salvia. You want to deadhead it after each bloom. You can cut it back a few weeks before the 1st frost or wait until after danger of frost is over in spring – your choice. I choose to cut them back in fall. Don’t take it down lower than 1.5 – 2′ from the ground. Hope that helps, Nell

  8. I planted mystic spires blue salvia in April and It is spreading more than I expected. Is it OK to prune it in midsummer? Should I prune it in Fall or Spring? Can you also give me tips in pruning this plant?
    I live in Fort Worth, Texas.
    Thanks.

    1. Hi Manoj –
      Thanks a great salvia & would grow vigorously in the warm Texas summer. Prune it back by 1/2 now (mid-summer) & then take it down to about a foot from the ground in late winter or early spring, whenever danger of frost has passed. Hope that helps! Nell

  9. Hi, Nell,

    Thanks for this great site! Can you stand another question? I’ve got black and blue salvia here in Coastal Georgia (zone 8b). I’ve also got the worst Cottony Cushion Scale problem you can imagine. Since we’re pretty warm year round, the salvia are still blooming — that is to say, as well as they can given the infestation. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the scale? I believe they came in on the plants and I’m very concerned about them spreading to the rest of this bed and into the other gardens.

    Thanks,
    Dyana

    1. Hi Dyana – You’re very welcome! Scale can be very hard to control because of its protective shell, especially when the infestation is bad. I’ve used horticultural oil in late winter through fall to control hard scale or alcohol (if the infestation is manageable). I have no experience with Cottony Cushion Scale but I do know there is a biological control which is a beetle. I’d check with your local agricultural extension office & see what they have to say. Best, Nell

  10. Your pruning video was very helpful! My hot lips leaves have gone from a green to a dark purple/brown color. Not sure if this is natural and I should prune…or let them go as is. I’m in the bay area.

    1. Hi Kat – I lived in SF for 20 years so I’m very familiar with that area. Yes, it’s very normal. I now live in Tucson & my Salvia Hot Pink is doing it also. It’s just a reaction to cooler temps. Salvias love sun & heat! Nell

  11. Hi Nell! I live in Modesto and my salvias tend to get a pest that makes little foamy spots all over the plants. Can you tell me if there’s an effective organic/natural way to treat this?

    Also I have a Black and Bloom (like black and blue) that I did not cut back and now it has woody stems with leaves and blooms at the tops but looks ugly. What can I do to get it nice looking again? Cut some of the stems and leave some to continue the plant growth? And if so, how short can I cut them right now? Also I pegged down a branch but haven’t checked…will this root? The top of the branch looks nice and is blooming now.

    Thank you!

    1. Hi Jacqui – Your salvias are getting spittlebug. It rarely harms the plant but is unsightly. I always spray it off with the garden hose. You can also make a homemade spray by doing a search. Cut your black & broom (a version of black & blue) back by about 1/3. Yes, the branch might root. Hope that helps, Nell

  12. Hi Nell, I enjoyed your post! I live in Modesto. How would you recommend pruning Black and Bloom salvia? The tag identifies it as salvia Mexicana.

    Also, I have a Black and Blue that I did not prune and the stems are kind of woody and about 2 ft. tall with no leaves except on the tops. Should I prune this down even though there are no lower leaves and no leaves at the base?

    Thank you!

  13. Thanks very much, Nell! So, it’s OK to cut black & bloom back and not have any leaves on it? I’m always afraid of doing that with salvia since I killed one doing that once. Thanks!

  14. Great info. I live in Hatch, Utah, at 7200 ft elevation. Winters are harsh, so I know I have to replace my salvias every year. The reason I bought them, aside from being beautiful and hardy, is because deer, chipmunks, and squirrels, don’t touch them. This is important for people who are confronted by deer and critters. It is hard to find flowering plants that don’t get eaten by animals. Pass the word. Salvias are OK. Also, smoke bushes and serrated-leaf grasses have proven to be plants that animals will not touch. Thanks for all your advice.

    1. Maria – You’re certainly welcome. Thank you for sharing your experience regarding deer & salvias (plus the other plants) with us. It’s not something I’ve ever had a lot of hand’s on experience with so it’s good to know. Nell

  15. Hi Nell, another salvia question, Amistad in this case. I live in Millbrae, the Bay Area, and we have them in our downtown planters. It’s January and they are still blooming but looking a bit raggy. When should they be pruned and how much? It’s our first year with them. Thanks so much. Carol

    1. Hi Carol – That’s a gorgeous plant with beautiful blooms. It’s a hybrid cross which is deciduous herbaceous salvia. In your area, you need to give it a hard pruning in late winter & then give it a lighter mid-season pruning to keep it looking good & encourage even more blooms. Nell

  16. I live in zone 6-7 inEastern Ky. We had temps below 0 for days on end this winter.I have hot lips salvia, do you think they will live?

    1. Hi Brenda – “HL” are hardy to 15F. They can survive lower temps with cover. If you covered them well, there’s a chance they’ll make it. Nell

  17. Hi Nell! Wow, you are so knowledgeable on salvia! The type I have, for whatever reason, continues to splay out in the middle, like an animal trampled on it or something – but I know from other research this is likely due to a pruning issue. I live in Indiana and they’ve been planted for 3 years so they are quite large now. When/how should I handle pruning it back? They are a purple/blue color and bloom all summer long.

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